Taiwan and Japan

Taiwan

Taipei: Days 1-4 

We stayed in Zhongshan District, which was very accessible via walking or uber for local restaurants, shopping boutiques and malls, and beauty spa/salons. Taipei was the place to get the cheapest and best manicure, eyelash extensions, and face massage I ever had. I visited Relax 33 spa and A Nails and Eyelash and would go back again if I could. I needed to make a reservation at Relax 33 whereas A Nails and Eyelash I was able to walk-in. We noticed that most stores would open at 10am and close at 10pm. We did feel safe walking in our district area, even late night at 4am where there is even 24hr dim sum readily available at Lucky Star. A favorite for beef noodle soup was Jin Din Roy, and a very popular spot for goose was Cheng Goose, which was absolutely worth waiting for. I would still recommend going early to put your name down as they do not take reservations. Also another food spot that many people recommend to us was Addiction Aquatic Development. It was very confusing at first because it’s next to a market, where locals buy fresh seafood. But the restaurant is outside and you choose the seafood you want to eat. They will cook it for you there before serving. For shopping, I really enjoyed going to NET Taiwan, where they have a good selection of women’s basics and accessories at affordable prices. I also bought a few pieces at Airspace and Airspace Lady, which is more of a boutique and has more feminine outfits at more mid-range prices. The more tourist area we visited was Maokung Gondola, which could be done on the first day you arrive as it’s a gondola ride that offers some scenic views but also not a huge miss. Of course we checked out one of the night markets, Raohe Night Market, with plenty of food to try. I admit it’s worth checking out, but can also be very crowded and overstimulating. Lastly, the boba scene is excellent in Taiwan. I like how the milk tea is served naturally in a local breakfast. If I were to go back, I would stay for 1-2 days. Overall, Taiwan was a great transition to relax and adjust to the time change before heading to our greater leg of the trip: Japan.

Highlights: Jin Din Roy, Maokung Gondola, Mo’s Burgers, Lucky Star, After Five, Addiction Aquatic Development, Coco Fresh Tea, Raohe Night Market, Cheng Goose, Chin Huajiao Taipei Zhongshan North

Japan

Sapporo: Days 5-7

We stayed in central Sapporo and our place was a 10-minute walk from busy Susukino area. What is great about Sapporo is that there are areas where you can have a quiet neighborhood and busy shopping and restaurants. We really enjoyed eating the shrimp ramen at Ebisoba Ichigen and pork ramen at Ichiran. We visited Nijo Market where they sell fresh seafood such as harry crab and cook it for you to enjoy there. We took a few hours to visit the Sapporo Beer Museum where we did a self-guided tour to learn the history and business of how Sapporo beer was made. There is also the Sapporo Beer grill restaurant right next to the museum to stop by for lunch too. I also purchased beauty and skincare products at Ainz and Tulpe. There’s more variety at A&T but you can find a bulk of the popular and viral products for cheaper at Don Quijote. We had Creamia ice cream in a few cities but our favorite was in Sapporo. It might have to do with the Hokkaido milk or it being our first time trying the ice cream here. We ended our last dinner at Yakiniku Ponga Sapporo Susukino. 

Highlights: Ebisoba Ichigen, Ichiran, Nijo Market, Sapporo Beer Museum, Cremia, and Yakiniku Ponga Sapporo Susukino

Tokyo: Days 8-10

We flew into Tokyo and met up with friends at Bell Star Shinjuku for dinner and drinks. The next morning we had reservations to get our hair styled and permed at Chobii salon. The staff were knowledgeable and professional, and considered this to be one of the best hair salon experiences I’ve ever had. We had lunch at Anime pizza and met up with friends later in the evening for drinks and bites in Shibuya. This area is prime tourist location and is very lively and crowded. Had it not been for our friends, it would be hard to imagine spending much time here. Our last day of Tokyo we visited Shinjuku Gyoen National Park, which is their version of a Central Park in the middle of the city. Lots of locals come here with their lunches and blankets and set up a picnic in the middle of the day. It’s a nice way to spend some time whether you’re a tourist or local. We had lunch at Iwateya, which became one of our favorite dining experiences of Japan. The staff are not only respectful towards tourists, but the quality of food was rich and comforting. We met up with our friends for dinner the last day before we would travel to our next city the next day. 

Highlights: Chobii, Anime, Shinjuku Gyoen National Park, Iwateya

Hakone: Day 11

We traveled to Hakone, which became the more confusing routes as we took a few transfers to get to our overnight stay. We recommend traveling light to Hakone, and only spending 1-2 days there. It is possible to ship and transport heavier luggage to the next city.  Hakone is a mountainous and quiet town, known for their ryokan and natural onsen experiences. It is worth seeing as it is so unique and different from other cities in Japan. We stayed at Mizu no Kaori Ryokan and Onsen for one night. It was a traditional ryokan set up with outdated fixtures. But the private onsen and bath made the experience worthwhile. If we could change something, we would want to check out the Hakone shrine next time. 

Highlight: Mizu no Kaori Ryokan and Onsen

Osaka: Day 12-14

We took a bullet train to Osaka and had tickets to see the Teamlab Botanical Gardens exhibition in the evening at Nagai Park. We grabbed dinner at a random local restaurant, もつ鍋 福, which became one of our favorite local spots in Osaka. The Botanical Gardens was worth seeing. It was a blend of artistry and technology outdoors with visitors enjoying each exhibition quietly. We booked a cultural tour to visit the red light district in Osaka. We initially thought it was a food tour but never would have learned about one of Osaka’s most forbidden neighborhoods if it weren’t for our tour and guide. More than any city in Japan, we did feel a tension from the locals towards tourists. There has always been a pride and solidarity amongst Japanese people. Over the years, Japan has become trendy to visit and therefore more tourists have flooded their cities. Even though their economy needs tourism, it is obvious that locals would rather not have us there. 

Highlight: Teamlab Botanical Gardens, Tobita Shinchi

Izumisano: Bonus Day 15

Our flights back home got cancelled due to the Typhoon and we ended up needing to stay in Japan for one more day. We booked a nearby stay in Izumisano, not too far from the airport. This neighborhood is known for their agriculture and food manufacturing. It’s a very small town and our hotel was in the middle of a residential area. However, the people were very nice and we didn’t spot a single tourist. It was obvious that the locals were far away from the touristy areas. But in the end, we were glad we got to see this side of Japan, a part from our experience in Osaka.

"The whole of Japan is a pure invention. There is no such country, there are no such people. The Japanese people are simply a mode of style, an exquisite fancy of art.” — Oscar Wilde