Stunning Switzerland
What started as a dream, turned into one of the most breathtaking and captivating countries I have ever had the privilege of journeying. Here is a snapshot of my week in Switzerland.
Day 1:
After flying a red-eye, we took the train from Zurich Airport to our hotel for check-in. Since it was already evening, we decided to try a recommended restaurant, Zeughauskeller located in Old Town. Old Town is a historical center with narrow-winding streets where you can find restaurants, shopping stores, and bars. This area is worth seeing if only once just to walk around and be enamored by its quaint charm. As far as trying Swiss food, Zeughauskeller is a nice choice and we opted to dine outside for a richer experience. I ordered roasted pork with rosti on the side, also known as fried grated potatoes or hash browns. This was our first experience ordering a bottle of still or sparkling water for 6 CHF. Some restaurants will allow for tap water which is free but this one did not give us the option.
Highlights: Old Town, Zeughauskeller, Zurich Lake
Day 2:
I was recommended that Stoos Ridge Hike was one of the most popular hikes. We proceeded to the trailhead after arriving in Stoos Village by cable car (also covered by Swiss Travel Pass). We went on a weekday when it wouldn't be crowded. However, since it was an extremely windy and cloudy day, the chair lifts up to the viewpoint/restaurant was not working. If the chair lifts had been working that day, it would cost 30 CHF roundtrip with the Swiss Travel Pass. That said, getting to the viewpoint by foot was challenging with steep elevation. In our heads, we thought we might as well take on this additional challenge of the hike since we had already taken the time to get to Stoos Village from Zurich, which took about 1-1.5 hours. By the time we arrived at the viewpoint 3.5 hours in, we decided to opt out of the ridge trail for the sake of time and less-than-desired weather conditions. Regardless, Stoos offered stunning views of Lake Lucerne. Hiking this challenging trail at the trip's start was a huge accomplishment. Once we arrived back in Zurich, we were craving Asian cuisine. We found Pho Na, a small but affordable Vietnamese restaurant that served the comforting taste of food from home we were missing.
Highlights: Stoos Ridge Hike, Pho Na
Day 3:
Today was dedicated to sightseeing in the city of Lucerne. Lucerne is a historical and picturesque small city located in central Switzerland. It can explored in one day in no rush which serves as the perfect day trip after a rigorous day of hiking. Upon arriving at Lucerne main station, about an hour's train ride from Zurich, we walked our way over to Old Town, passing by the Reuss River and Chapel Bridge. Even on a rainy day, these iconic landmarks are worth seeing with the beautiful riverfront and historical buildings. From Old Town, we walked over to Museggmauer, known as the former city walls, where we saw an impressive view overlooking the entire city of Lucerne. Also at Museggmauer was the Zyttyrn clock tower, where we climbed the staircase to the top, and was freely accessible. Walking around Lucerne worked up our appetite, and we stumbled upon one of our favorite dining experiences from the trip. Kanchi Indian Restaurant served an exquisite Indian buffet for about 25 CHF. In our minds, that was a fantastic deal! After lunch, we walked over to Lion Monument, which honors the fallen Swiss soldiers during the French Revolution. In the late afternoon, we caught a ferry across Lake Lucerne to Vitznau, where we rode the Vitznau-Rigi Railway to ascend up Mount Rigi. The ferry and railway ride were covered by the Swiss Travel Pass. By the time we reached the summit, some of the clouds cleared up, and we were able to enjoy the beautiful Swiss Alps scenery. Compared to the difficult Stoos Ridge Hike the day before, Mount Rigi Panorama Trail requires minimal and easy hiking effort to get the panorama views near Zurich and Lucerne. I only wish it was a clear and sunny day but it was still worth the trek to see the classic Swiss landscapes.
After a long day of sightseeing, we arrived back just in time to get ready for a night on the town in Zurich. My local friend recommended Rimini Bar, which has a very unique and cool outdoor atmosphere. We dined outside and enjoyed fondue for three with potatoes, pickles, pears, and bread as our sides. After dinner, my local friend invited us to Hive Club where they played techno music that night. Hive Club had different floors and rooms that looked like art installations.
Highlights: Old Town, Chapel Bridge, Museggmauer, Zyttyrn clower tower, Kanchi Indian Restaurant, Lion Monument, Mount Rigi, Rimini Bar, Hive Club
Day 4:
We checked out of our hotel in the late morning and traveled from Zurich to Wengen, which took about 4 hours. I originally wanted to stay in Lauterbrunnen, an alpine village in the Swiss Alps. However, Wengen is just as similar, only 15 minutes north of Lauterbrunnen by train, and proved to be the perfect base for hiking the Jungfrau region. After checking into our hotel in Wengen, we explored the village and had dinner at Restaurant Caprice. Within Wengan, there are several restaurants, hotels, and stores for groceries, souvenirs, and outdoor gear. Everything you would need is within this village for your day trips.
Day 5:
Today appeared to be a clear day so I was excited to hike the Lauterbrunnen Valley and Northface Murren Trail hike today. Lauterbrunnen Valley is free and accessible to anyone. Getting to Murren requires a few cable cars that are covered with the Swiss Travel Pass. Lauterbrunnen is an easy, flat, paved trail, where we encountered 72 waterfalls. The most well-known waterfall that is free to view is Staubbach Falls. We did a short 10-minute detour to walk up the dirt path to a viewpoint behind the falls. This detour can be slippery so it is recommended to tread carefully. There were waterfalls and livestock on both sides of the valley with tall mountains ahead of the path. We saw several paragliders gently drift through the valley. At the end of the 2-hour valley trek, this is where we took a cable car up to Murren.
When we arrived in Murren Village, there were convenience stores, restaurants, and restrooms to have a quick lunch and break before we took on the Northface Murren Trail. When I planned the itinerary for this trip, I was unsure if Murren Trail was worth doing. Now having done it, I can say for certain that this was my favorite hike of the trip. Similar to Stoos, there was a steady incline from the start to the highest point of the trail which provided the most amazing alpine landscape views.
We had dinner at the lodge we stayed at, Hotel Restaurant Bernerhof. One of the entrees that stood out to me was 'Swiss army noodles' served with applesauce. It gave comforting macaroni and chili vibes after a day of hiking.
Highlights: Lauterbrunnen Valley Trail, Northface Murren Trail,
Day 6:
Whether it was the adrenaline and high of being in Switzerland or the perseverance of completing my set plan knowing I had only one day left, I decided to do a solo hike for the first time. When looking up Swiss trails, Schynige Platte Panorama Ridge Trail was one of the more popular hikes. In hindsight, I think this trail offers the same views as Stoos Ridge Trail. However, since we opted out of the ridge trail of Stoos and the weather was undesirable, Schynige Platte Trail more than made up for that. To my surprise, it took 2 hours of transit to get to where I was from Wengen to Wilderswil, where I took a 1-hour railway mountain train to the trailhead. It is a 32 CHF roundtrip with the Swiss Travel Pass to do this trail. Overall, it took about the same time to complete the trail as it took to get to it. But it was a beautiful day to take in this charming trail, with its mountain views and rocky cliffs.
When I arrived back in Wengen, we decided to have our final dinner in Switzerland at Pasta & More and had drinks at Crystal Bar.
Highlights: Schynige Platte Trail, Pasta & More, Crystal Bar
Tips:
- Transit: I purchased the 8-day Swiss Travel Pass which allowed for unlimited access to Switzerland's efficient and robust travel system. It was nice not having to worry about purchasing individual transit tickets and being able to hop on and off any stop from the bus, train, or tram. Though I downloaded the SBB transit app, I rarely used it. Google Maps instead proved to be incredibly accurate with live times and adjustments for navigation. For my travel plans, the Swiss Travel Pass was the more affordable option, rather than buying individual passes.
- Food: While cheese and chocolate are a must to try, I thought food in Switzerland was just satisfactory. I was recommended by a local friend to try Frey and Laderach chocolate, and both did not disappoint. There were also several grocery stores, Coop and Migros, to purchase any small meals and snacks. On average I spent about 65 CHF or 70 USD per day on food.
- Internet: I was able to purchase a SIM card for unlimited data, calls, and messages for 20 CHF at a Sunrise Mobile Shop near Zurich HB main station. This was the easiest option for me and provided coverage and data throughout my trip.
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